In late May 2022 we flew to Barcelona for a few days before boarding Silversea's Silver Dawn, then sailed the western Mediterranean all the way to Rome. The itinerary had a centerpiece you don't get every day: the Monaco Grand Prix, live from the grandstands. Between the race, vineyard visits in Provence, Portofino's harbor, and a few slow days in Rome, it was the kind of trip that moves at exactly the right pace — full days when we wanted them, and plenty of room to breathe.

This is the journal of that trip, in the order we lived it.

Barcelona: A Few Days Before We Sailed

We started with a pre-cruise stay at the Majestic in Barcelona — wandering boulevards, finding rooftops, and eating our way through the food halls before embarkation day.

Wheels up — the trip begins.
Wheels up — the trip begins.
A toast to the week ahead.
A toast to the week ahead.
Looking down into an ornate atrium.
Looking down into an ornate atrium.
Arched windows and balconies around an interior courtyard.
Arched windows and balconies around an interior courtyard.
A tree-lined boulevard, metro sign and all.
A tree-lined boulevard, metro sign and all.
Rooftop panorama over Barcelona's red-tiled roofs.
Rooftop panorama over Barcelona's red-tiled roofs.
City view with a domed historic building.
City view with a domed historic building.
Inside the food hall — a panorama of stalls.
Inside the food hall — a panorama of stalls.
Rooftop selfie with the city behind us.
Rooftop selfie with the city behind us.
A glass of wine overlooking the harbor.
A glass of wine overlooking the harbor.
A fortress-crowned hill on the horizon.
A fortress-crowned hill on the horizon.
Dinner at S.A.L.T. Kitchen — menu in hand.
Dinner at S.A.L.T. Kitchen — menu in hand.
Sunset over the water, port cranes in silhouette.
Sunset over the water, port cranes in silhouette.
The harbor going red-orange at sunset.
The harbor going red-orange at sunset.

Embarkation Day: Silver Dawn

Boarding day took us under the Silver Dawn tent at the dock — and out to Pisa, where the Baptistery stood against a clear blue sky.

Pisa's Baptistery against a blue sky, on our embarkation-day excursion.
Pisa's Baptistery against a blue sky, on our embarkation-day excursion.
Under the Silver Dawn tent at the dock — we're boarding.
Under the Silver Dawn tent at the dock — we're boarding.

Monaco: The Grand Prix

The 79th Monaco Grand Prix ran May 26–29, 2022, and our itinerary put us there for it. Silversea ran an onboard preview breaking down the circuit and tyre compounds, and then we took our seats — K5, race day — in the grandstands above the harbor. Between sessions we walked the marina, where the yachts were packed in bow to stern for race weekend.

The onboard preview: a Formula 1 briefing on the circuit and tyre compounds ahead of the Monaco Grand Prix.
The onboard preview: a Formula 1 briefing on the circuit and tyre compounds ahead of the Monaco Grand Prix.
Our tickets — the 79th Monaco Grand Prix, May 26–29, 2022.
Our tickets — the 79th Monaco Grand Prix, May 26–29, 2022.
The official poster: "Let's Race."
The official poster: "Let's Race."
From the grandstand: the harbor circuit, yachts, and Monte Carlo rising behind.
From the grandstand: the harbor circuit, yachts, and Monte Carlo rising behind.
Race cars flying past the harbor, yachts lined up behind the barriers.
Race cars flying past the harbor, yachts lined up behind the barriers.
The harbor packed with yachts for race weekend.
The harbor packed with yachts for race weekend.
Wide view of the harbor and the circuit infrastructure.
Wide view of the harbor and the circuit infrastructure.
An onboard talk tracing the Grand Prix's history, with a classic drivers' lineup on screen.
An onboard talk by THE STIG and his Grand Prix's history, with the classic drivers' lineup on screen.
The superyacht FLAG at anchor off Monaco.
The superyacht FLAG at anchor off Monaco.
Monte Carlo from the water.
Monte Carlo from the water.
Overlooking the marina with the Prince's Palace rock behind.
Overlooking the marina with the Prince's Palace rock behind.

Marseille and Provence: Vineyards and the Palais des Papes

From Monaco we continued west to Provence — a day among the vines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, including Maison Bouachon, and a stop in Avignon for the Palais des Papes.

Marseille from the hillside.
Marseille from the hillside.
Sunlit vineyard rows in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Sunlit vineyard rows in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Domaine Tour Saint Michel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Domaine Tour Saint Michel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Through the gates: Bouachon Jardin.
Through the gates: Bouachon Jardin.
The garden and fountain at Maison Bouachon.
The garden and fountain at Maison Bouachon.
The barrel hall — stacked oak as far as you can see.
The barrel hall — stacked oak as far as you can see.
A Châteauneuf-du-Pape barrel head with the papal emblem.
A Châteauneuf-du-Pape barrel head with the papal emblem.
Maison Bouachon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape — depuis 1898.
Maison Bouachon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape — depuis 1898.
Avignon: the signpost pointing to the Palais des Papes.
Avignon: the signpost pointing to the Palais des Papes.
The Palais des Papes plaza, cathedral tower and golden statue.
The Palais des Papes plaza, cathedral tower and golden statue.
The wide plaza in front of the Palais des Papes.
The wide plaza in front of the Palais des Papes.
A tasting flight — one white, two reds — at the winery.
A tasting flight — one white, two reds — at the winery.

Portofino

Back on the Italian side, Portofino gave us the postcard version of the Riviera: a white yacht in the marina, green hills behind, and the colorful waterfront buildings along the harbor.

A white yacht in Portofino's marina, green hills behind.
A white yacht in Portofino's marina, green hills behind.
Portofino's colorful waterfront buildings along the harbor.
Portofino's colorful waterfront buildings along the harbor.

Onboard: The S.A.L.T. Cooking Class

One of the best afternoons of the sailing was the S.A.L.T. cooking class onboard — hands-on at the induction cooktops, making ravioli from scratch. Eating well with food allergies takes planning everywhere else; in that kitchen, everything was laid out and in our hands.

Making ravioli in the S.A.L.T. cooking class onboard.
Making ravioli in the S.A.L.T. cooking class onboard.

At Sea

Sunset over a calm sea from the ship.
Sunset over a calm sea from the ship.

Rome: The Post-Cruise Stay

We finished with a post-cruise stay at The Westin Excelsior Rome and took the city at a walker's pace — the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, St. Peter's Square, the Colosseum — with long lunches and unhurried streets in between.

The Pantheon, columns and crowds.
The Pantheon, columns and crowds.
The Trevi Fountain in full, turquoise water and all.
The Trevi Fountain in full, turquoise water and all.
St. Peter's Square — the obelisk, the basilica, the colonnades.
St. Peter's Square — the obelisk, the basilica, the colonnades.
The Colosseum.
The Colosseum.
Pasta at Girarrosto Fiorentino.
Pasta at Girarrosto Fiorentino.
A Caffè Greco dessert drink on a marble table.
A Caffè Greco dessert drink on a marble table.
A busy Roman shopping street.
Our tour guide was AMAZING! He got us to the points when the streets were not as busy - and when we asked for Gelato?? He delivered!

Barcelona to Rome, with a Grand Prix in the middle — this one had a little of everything. If a sailing like this is on your list, I'd love to help you plan it around your pace.

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